It’s about -25 Celsius. We are inside after a run on snowmobiles over windy Finnish hills. With 25 degrees below zero, that’s a challenge. We stopped for a few minutes on a hill to take pictures of the impressive winter landscape. As the minutes passed, our guide began to insist, first politely, then less politely, that we should get moving again. Otherwise, we would get something frozen here—our limbs and, more probably, our eyes.

In the hut, he made a fire and roasted sausages. All was well.
We smelled like smoked mackerel for the rest of the day.